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Nordkapp trip part IV: Jokkmokk-Nordkapp

It must be said that Swedish landscape is quite boring, mainly trees and trees, and yes, of course some more trees. Luckily we would leave Sweden soon and drive back into Norway.

Still in Sweden

Little by Little, we can see that the trees are smaller as we drive north and the outside temperature gets lower. We stop in Alta, I think the last “big” city we’ll see in Norway and we fill the tank and have dinner, there’s a beautiful fjord but the wind is blowing and it is freezing so we pack fast and keep driving. The road gets worse and worse as the terrain is really hilly, to reach Ponsargerfjord we still have to drive through a mountain pass. Up there no trees grow at all and there patches of snow all year long I presume, there’s only grass and land where lots of reindeers graze. I can’t imagine anyone leaving there but some cabins can be seen now and then, but I can’t stop thinking is that there is nothing there, totally empty lands…

Empty lands

Now the temperature was around 3ºC and it is the end of June, I can’t imagine how that must be in winter. After we went down we reached the sea again and drove along the road along the sea, it is a very narrow, twisting and turning road which makes it quite difficult to drive on. Every now and then there are some fishing villages and some wooden structures to dry the fish on, I guess there are no other things to live on here as I can’t even see sheeps.

We drive through some long tunnels but the funny thing comes when we find that signYes, almost 7km of tunnel, it is more fun when we see other warning signs stating that there is 8% slope inside the tunnel and that there might be fog in it. Inside it Laura becomes extremely happy as it is the darkest we’ve been in many days. We drive outside the tunnel and we discover there’s a toll where we have to pay for the car and for every one of us… bastards…

Then we reach Honningsvåg which is definetely a lost village in the north, what is surprising is that 3 big cruise ships are in the harbour, then we realize that it is all tourists going to Nordkapp with buses carried in the ships. We continue driving and we reach the Nordkapp, and our surprise is that, of course, we should pay again as there is a kind of museum and cinema where they show probably shitty movies, as we come from so far we decide to pay and go in. Now I can say it is the end of the world, there is nothing northern than that parallel 71º and being 23h is still quite sunny.

Myself and the midnight sun in the Northernmost part of Europe

Still fucking cold and windy…

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Nordkapp Trip part III: Kjerrag-Jokkmokk

After visiting a part of Norway’s west coast it was time to drive all the way to Nordkapp, that would take 3 “nights” as it wasn’t getting dark at all. The first stop was set to Rauland where Laura had arranged couch surfing.

On our way to Rauland we drove through stunning landscapes as we got used since we arrived in Norway with mountains, lakes and the southermost reindeer population of Europe (where we didn’t see any raindeer), the roads there are small and going through many hills and two cars couldn’t fit, but with patience we made it to our meeting point in the gas station in Rauland.

Southermost reindeer population in Europe

Rauland is a very small village in Telemark, we met Aliona in the gas station and drove to their place, it was a challange to fit one more person in the car as most of us were carrying quite a few items for a two-week trip. Once there her flatmate Vlad was waiting for us and cooking an incredibily tasty Ucranian soup that we ate outside with great weather. We were hosted in a very cozy and beautiful cabin typical from Norway and ours hosts showed us the village. It must be the perfect place to relax for a while but after some time one might get bored, there was a magnificient lake that could be skied in winter.

Our hosts in Raunland next to their house

Next morning we woke up early as we had to sleep in Trondheim in the couch of a friend of a guy working with Grzeg. So we took the road to Trondheim through Oslo wich was supposed to be the best road in Norway, the inner part of Norway was quite boring compared to the west coast with the fjords and cliffs but it also had some nice parts with mountains and waterfalls as weel as in the mountain passes where we saw a couple of mooses from far away.

At the end of the day we made it to Trondheim where Shaggy hosted us, we just had dinner and went to sleep early as we were quite tired from the day and the next one was going to be the same, 10 hours in the car more or less.

As the roads in Norway are not quite good we decided to drive through Sweden as it’s not as hilly as the neighbooring country, the roads there are wide and good and as there’s literally noone around (some times we didn’t see anyone for some hours) we could speed.

Everything is yellow and blue in Sweden

In the middle of nowhere

Raindeer, we would get tired of seeing those.

After endless hours of driving we crossed the Polar circle and camped some kilometers after Jokkmokk (Yes, it also is a product from IKEA) and we made a bonefire, Grzeg and I considered going to hunt some reindeers but as it was getting dark we thought it was better to stay.

So far north we could clearly see the midnight sun as at 1am it looked like in was still the afternoon so far we had driven 2627km in 5 days.

The guys and the hosts in Rauland

We expected to reach Nordkapp next day.

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Nordkapp trip Part II: Preikestolen-Kjerrag

After seeing the Preikestolen we headed to Lysebotn which is a village at the end of the Lysenfjorn, the main access to that village is through the ferry but we took a mountain road to get there. On the way it was fucking freezing and on the mountain lakes there were quite big pieces of ice, to me this was quite shocking as it was supposed to be summer. The road we took was built by the electric company who operates a hydroelectric turbine in the fjord, here is were we saw the first crazy Norwegian tunnel which was wide enough for one car only and had a harpin bend inside the tunnel, besides that there were 27 other bends so you can imagine it was quite a steep road.

Frozen lake on our way to Lysebotn

In Lysebotn there are only few buildings; the docks, a camping and some hostels and everything was very expensive, in the only bar of the village a hamburguer with fries was 180 NOK which It must be around 25€… So we decided to stick with the food we brought from Denmark. We camped in a really nice spot near a waterfall where there was wood to make a fire.

camping

The four of us plus The Orange

Ferry

Ferry arriving to Lysebotn

The campsite in Lysebotn

Our campsite in Lysebotn

Next day we packed and drove up the road to Kjerrag, this mountains are amazing, from the erosion the top of the mountains are relatively flat with cliffs droping up to a 1000m to the fjord, is one of the best places of the world to do B.A.S.E. jumping and we had the opportunity to see these guys in action.

While in Preikestolen or any cliffs I hadn’t been afraid of the heights being on the top of this rock was really scary as it is like is floating and just stucked in between to cliffs to fall any time as you can appreciate in the pictures.

Me on the famous rock in Kjerrag

It was quite a steep path

The guys on the top of the world

We could see the base jumpers jumping from the left cliff

It was a tiring walk

After going down the mountain we started driving to Rauland where we had arranged CouchSurfing to spend the night.

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